Since I missed this place so much, I decided to write something about the Ilonggo dishes that I miss the most. One of the reasons why we settled down in Iloilo is the food. It’s one of the places in the Philippines with a good gastronomic scene. Ilonggo dish when described is “manamit” or delicious, simple, and uses local ingredients.
But who are Ilonggos? They are the people living in the Western Visayas Region speaking Hiligaynon as their primary language.
I’ll be highlighting those authentic Ilonggo dishes that are commonly prepared when you visit the island of Panay. Feel free to recommend some more of your favorite Ilonggo dishes so I can add it here.
Talaba. Everywhere you go in Panay Island, Guimaras or in Negros Occidental, you’ll find talabahan (a place to eat talaba). Best prepared when steamed and dipped either in langgaw (vinegar) added with siling labuyo (bird’s eye chilis) and kalamansi (Philippine lime) or another dipping is a mix of toyo (soy sauce), kalamansi and siling labuyo. You’ll find this anywhere in the markets, across the road, and fancy restaurants. Nowadays, it had gone a lot of innovation from baked talaba, omelette, and a whole lot of bizarre preparations. I loved to hangout in one of those talabahan in Iloilo City such as those in Fort San Pedro, Kalan-an sa Uhong in Iloilo Circumferential Road, Dumangas coastlines, and, Villa beach.
Batchoy. Forget everything and never brag that you’ve been to Iloilo or in Panay without sampling the famous batchoy. A perfect comfort food not just in the rainy season but for the rest of the year. It’s a big battle between batchoyan like talabahan in Panay. Batchoyans (a place where you can have batchoy) had maintained and perfected their concoction of batchoy soup. The broth mixture still remains a secret to those who run a batchoyan. While the fresh noodles are always prepared in the markets. Simple preparation requires time and love. I always had my bowl of batchoy either in markets of La Paz, Central or Super. It is perfectly paired with fresh pandeciosa or pandesal bread.
Binakol na Manok. This chicken soup is one of the best in Ilonggo cuisine. Cooked in buko juice and served in buko shell, you’ll have the option to eat the buko meat after you devour the sweet-tangy chicken soup. This is something you should never miss when traveling in Iloilo or in Panay.
Pancit Molo. Another Ilonggo specialty. One might wonder where is the pancit in this meal? Now, this is something different for it is made from pork dumplings. Originated in Molo District in Iloilo City during the earliest occupation of Chinese traders on the island. The definite dates were not recorded but this soup remained and prepared in almost all big gatherings like family reunions. You can also order this in restaurants or simply walk in one of those streets in Molo and sit in molohan. Like batchoy, you can score some of the best molohan in Molo District. Ask jeepney or taxi drivers, and, locals for their best recommendations. Taste is subjective.
Pancit molo dumpling mixture is made of ground pork wrapped in molo or wonton wrapper, shredded chicken meat, and fresh shrimps.
Laswa. I love vegetables! That’s why I included this on the list. It’s primarily made from any saluyot (jute leaves), okra (ladyfingers), sitaw (string beans), talong (eggplant) and kalabasa (squash) cooked in water and salt. I always cook this whenever I had time since the abundance of ingredients in Iloilo and the rest of Panay. Best if you garnish it with steamed medium-sized fresh shrimps. I always order this vegetable in carenderias (eatery) as the starter for 10 pesos a bowl.
Tambo. Another favorite vegetable in Panay, tambo, unlike laswa is cooked in coconut milk. Tambo is a bamboo shot slowly cooked with some vegetables such as okra or saluyot in coconut milk producing a slimy texture. Small shrimps or crabs are mostly added. I ordered my favorite tambo in one of the carenderia beside Customs building in Iloilo City.
Linutik. Another vegetable dish made from mashed squash and cooked in coconut milk. I really loved this vegetable. Simple and affordable. You can even cook it in your home.
Kansi. If you’re a beef-lover, then this is for you! A perfect soup to enjoy during the rainy season that awakens your memory and concentration. Oh well, I think I have to prepare my own kansi. Gutom na guid ko ya! (I’m starving!) It’s a beef soup made from beef shank, local spices such as tanglad (lemongrass), batuan (a fruit from a local tree that produces a sour taste) slowly cooked for a few hours. It’s like a combined bulalo and sinigang. 2 in 1. I have a special place for this in Jaro district. Just a few meters from the Jaro Cathedral. Just asked around. Hint: it’s an old house.
KBL. Oh la la! This is one of the few Ilonggo dishes I had in my first few weeks in Iloilo. The first time I set foot into this exciting and culinary city of Iloilo, I had the opportunity to try and compared the best KBL. My verdict: still the homemade KBL prepared in humble homes of my friends is still the best. But, you can still try it in one of the carenderias in Parola wharf. For only 35 pesos per serving. Re-invigorate yourself with this fantastic soup.
KBL means kadyos (pigeon peas), baboy (pork) and langka (jackfruit). It’s a good source of protein and fiber. Not to mention the cholesterol. Nevermind, Filipinos love to eat pork.
Manok Inasal. Everywhere you go, as long as you see smoke, there’s fire? No, there’s chicken inasal. Nothing beats the taste and aroma of freshly grilled chicken. Bacolod has the reputation of having the best inasal but the native chicken inasal in Iloilo is still my number one.
Manok Tinuom. It’s one of the best Ilonggo dish I am dreaming of since I left Iloilo. Tinuom na manok is chicken wrapped in banana leaves and slowly cooked in a pot with some local herbs and spices.
